PASSAGE VIII
At the heart of the enormous boom in
wine consumption that has taken place in the English-speaking world over the
last two decades or so is a fascinating, happy paradox. In the days when wine
was exclusively the preserve of a narrow cultural elite, bought either at
auctions or from gentleman wine merchants in wing collars and bow-ties, to be
stored in rambling cellars and decanted to order by one's butler, the ordinary drinker
didn't get a look-in. Wine was considered a highly technical subject, in which
anybody without the necessary ability could only fall flat on his or her face
in embarrassment. It wasn't just that you needed a refined aesthetic
sensibility for the stuff if it wasn't to be hopelessly wasted on you. It
required an intimate knowledge of what came from where, and what it was
supposed to taste like.
Those were times, however, when wine
appreciation essentially meant a familiarity with the great French classics,
with perhaps a smattering of other wines—like sherry and port. That was what
the wine trade dealt in. These days, wine is bought daily in supermarkets and
high-street chains to be consumed that evening, hardly anybody has a cellar to
store it in and most don't even possess a decanter. Above all, the wines of literally
dozens of countries are available on our market. When a supermarket offers its
customers a couple of fruity little numbers from Brazil, we scarcely raise an
eyebrow.
It seems, in other words, that the
commercial jungle that wine has now become has not in the slightest deterred
people from plunging adventurously into the thickets in order to taste and see.
Consumers are no longer intimidated by the thought of needing to know their
Pouilly-Fume from their Pouilly-Fuisse, just at the very moment when there is
more to know than ever before.
The reason for this new mood of
confidence is not hard to find. It is on every wine label from Australia, New
Zealand, South Africa and the United States: the name of the grape from which
the wine is made. At one time that might have sounded like a fairly technical
approach in itself. Why should native Englishspeakers know what Cabernet
Sauvignon or Chardonnay were? The answer lies in the popularity that wines made
from those grape varieties now enjoy. Consumers effectively recognize them as
brand names, and have acquired a basic lexicon of wine that can serve them even
when confronted with those Brazilian upstarts.
In the wine heartlands of France, they
are scared to death of that trend—not because they think their wine isn't as
good as the best from California or South Australia (what French winemaker will
ever admit that?) but because they don't traditionally call their wines
Cabernet Sauvignon or Chardonnay. They call them Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou or
Corton-Charlemagne, and they aren't about to change. Some areas, in the middle
of southern France, have now produced a generation of growers using the
varietal names on their labels and are tempting consumers back to French wine.
It will be an uphill struggle, but there is probably no other way if France is
to avoid simply becoming a specialty source of old-fashioned wines for old fashioned
connoisseurs.
Wine consumption was also given a
significant boost in the early 1990s by the work of Dr. Serge Renaud, who has
spent many years investigating the reasons for the uncannily low incidence of
coronary heart disease in the south of France. One of his major findings is
that the fat-derived cholesterol that builds up in the arteries and can
eventually lead to heart trouble, can be dispersed by the tannins in wine.
Tannin is derived from the skins of grapes, and is therefore present in higher
levels in red wines, because they have to be infused with their skins to attain
the red colour. That news caused a huge upsurge in red wine consumption in the
United States. It has not been accorded the prominence it deserves in the UK,
largely because the medical profession still sees all alcohol as a menace to
health, and is constantly calling for it to be made prohibitively expensive.
Certainly, the manufacturers of anticoagulant drugs might have something to
lose if we all got the message that we would do just as well by our hearts by
taking half a bottle of red wine every day!
77. Which one of the following CANNOT
be reasonably attributed to the labelling strategy followed by wine producers
in English-speaking countries?
[1]
Consumers buy wines on the basis of their familiarity with a grape variety's
name.
[2]
Even ordinary customers now have more access to technical knowledge about wine.
[3]
Consumers are able to appreciate better quality wines.
[4]
Some non-English speaking countries like Brazil indicate grape variety names on
their labels.
78. The tone that the author uses
while asking "What French winemaker will ever admit that?" is best described
as
[1] caustic. [2]
satirical. [3] critical. [4] hypocritical.
79. What according to the author
should the French do to avoid becoming a producer of merely oldfashioned wines?
[1]
Follow the labelling strategy of the English-speaking countries.
[2]
Give their wines English names.
[3]
Introduce fruity wines as Brazil has done.
[4]
Produce the wines that have become popular in the English-speaking world.
80. Which one of the following, if
true, would provide most support for Dr. Renaud's findings about the effect of
tannins?
[1]
A survey showed that film celebrities based in France have a low incidence of
coronary heart disease.
[2]
Measurements carried out in southern France showed red wine drinkers had
significantly higher levels of coronary heart incidence than white wine
drinkers did.
[3]
Data showed a positive association between sales of red wine and incidence of
coronary heart disease.
[4]
Long-term surveys in southern France showed that the incidence of coronary
heart disease was significantly lower in red wine drinkers than in those who
did not drink red wine.
Click hear to Section III
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